Introductory a few words to beginners of the subject '2CV-engeneering', which means somebody like me in the Year 2004 anno domini. ...
Take time for the restoration or screwing work. My originally estimated half year became 2 1/2 years. During this time you need enough space for working. I occupied up to 2 garages and just as many cellar areas. If you can get a garage of a good buddy, don't promise you would be out again in a short span of time.
Procure equitable tools. The tool kit from the special offer table in the do-it-yourself store withstands the arising torque loads of oxidated screws rarely for a long time. Perhaps you'll ruin the screw heads when turning. When slipping with destroyed tools you can hurt yourself hardly. A good ratschet drill set and a wrench set is needed. For some screw connections torques are compellingly prescribed, therefore you'll need a ratchet with adjustable moment.
Don't be ceap
Don't pinch and scrape. If you are starting a framework exchange, don't put the rusty body on it. Replace all oxidated plates and don't forget the rust convention. It's a good idea to replace braking and fuel tubing at the same time. Many small articles such as gaskets, screws, grommets, pins, cavity grease, undercoat etc. are quite noticeably into the total account. Buy alway good quality - you have longer joy to. Stainless steel plates and screws are more expensive, however they never oxidate again. It's no longer advisable to take 2CV's as consumables, because no new cars are built and the pool of vehicles becomes smaller. If you finished the total restoration, you won't have to disassembly your duck only because a cheap article failed.
All screws must be loosened also sometimes again
Bolt connections are used, where parts can be separated from each other if necessary. Therefore it is advisable to grease all used screws (engine parts + transmissions excluded) before the installation (universal or graphite grease, copper paste). That completely applies to all screws at the framework or at the body exterior. Even in the interior I toiled myself with rusty screws. Always keep a tube of grease at hand - small cost, large effect. Sometimes the fear is expressed, greased screws would loosen themselfes. That is not correct! Screw threads have a appropriate geometry, which does not permit that. It is just as wrong to tighten greased screws with a higher torque! The result is a too strong stretch of the screw and in extreme cases a torn off screw head.
You are ready for the adventure? I wish you sufficient staying power for this undertaking. If you don't allready own a 2CV, then take a look at the used 2CV market. Sometimes semifinished cars with many new parts are offered at relatively cheap conditions, because those peoples run out of time. So you can save the time, which the previous owner already invested. A further advantage is that you can examine a divided car very well:). Go with a 2CV expert to the inspection date - the test run with individual parts precipitates for understandable reasons.
Finally me request to stay the course. I also didn't work each weekend, but i always enoyed it. As a proud owner of a shining duck with second life I can say: 'The goal is worth all the trouble'.
People who touch a geriatic duck below their metal dress will get definitely dirty fingers. If hand cleaner, which should be considered with the purchase in sufficient quantity, is not in reach or nevertheless empty again, here also normal washing powder is very useful. The stress lies on powder - softener does not help, because only the grains wash off the dirt correctly. That hint I got from an electrical dealer - thanks to Jürgen Schlitt.